California Photo Scout

Millers Point, Pt Reyes

The rugged, windswept peninsula of Pt. Reyes protrudes into the Pacific Ocean just north of San Francisco. The elements have shaped the unprotected cape into a delightfully beautiful landscape. Rocky and sandy beaches, grasslands and a fantastic seascape make this a favorite getaway for Bay Area residents. Most of the weekenders concentrate on the beaches close to the main parking lots. Trail traffic can be quite low, considering the amount of visitors who enjoy this wonderful place.

In this article, I will take you on a long trail along the coast of Drakes Bay, to Arch Rock, a sea arch. We will follow the longer and more scenic route as opposed to the shorter Bear Valley Trail. The journey is the real destination, as you will hike along a beach, through forests and follow the rugged steep coast.

How to get there

Olema is a small city located on Highway 1. In Olema, turn west on Bear Valley Road from Highway 1. The exit is hidden behind some brush and easy to miss, despite the road sign indicating the Point Reyes turnoff (Google Street View).

After the turnoff, drive 1.8 miles and turn left onto Limantour Spit Rd. Follow this road for 7.5 miles until the last road leading to the left. Follow this road to the end to a small parking lot. This is the starting point of our tour.

Pt Reyes Trail Map (click to enlarge)

This is a 13 miles round trip hike, but you can turn around at any time, since it is not a loop trail.

Shortly after the turnoff in Olema, you will pass the visitor center on your left. Stop for a map!

Download the gpx file to study the trail in detail.

GPS position

Parking Lot (start your trail):

• 38° 1’33.96″N 122°52’36.12″W

Miller’s Point:

• 37°59’13.08″N 122°48’47.70″W

How to photograph Pt. Reyes Coastal Trail

We left our car in good spirits, but without enough water and too late. With the sun still high in the sky, I underestimated the distance, despite sophisticated charting methods (topo map).

Drakes Bay, Pt Reyes

The coast trail starts further north-east on Limantour Spit Rd. However, driving down to the parking lot will save you some distance and also keep you from having to hike uphill on your way back.

From the parking lot, head towards the beachto get past the inland water hole. As you hike across the dunes, you can catch a glimpse of the terrain ahead. This is also a good spot to photograph the dune grass and the beach (photo above). You can greatly improve the feeling of this image if you return in time for sunset. The dune grass will have a golden hue and the cliffs will glow in the light of the fading day.

Follow the beach for about 0.4 miles and then turn left to get back on Coast Road. Follow Coast Road for another three quarters of a mile until it turns left, following a small ravine. Take the Woodward Fire Rd toward Coast Campground. The trail leads through the camp and slightly uphill, following the coastline.

Deer behind bushes

Follow the trail and in case of doubt, always pick the trail leading back to the water and along the coast. As you pass through the brush, keep an eye open for deer. The shy animals peek through the bushes.

Brush

The brown background vegetation blends with the deer and is very distracting in your images. It is very difficult to get a depth that is shallow enough to blur the background sufficiently. Some post processing may be necessary to obtain the results you like. There are also scores of little comical birds running around, but they are very hard to photograph.

I saw an egret in one of the small rivers, shortly before the wooden bridge, but the shy animal knew how to keep brush between itself and me. Maybe you have more luck than I did. I took a few photographs of the brush instead.

Follow the trail until you get to Millers Point (photograph at the top of the article). From here, you can take a short trail down to the beach to see Arch Rock, a natural stone arch in the ocean. From Millers Point, you have a superb view of Drakes bay to the north, the windswept rocks and the crashing waves. The Sea blows ice-cold winds into unprotected Millers Point, making our early October visit feel like an arctic adventure.

On our rush back home, I took a few more photographs of the warm sunlight hitting the trail at various locations.

Trail Sunset

Best Time of the Day and Best Season

Any time of the day, as long as you don’t leave too late. Late spring will have the most color.

Time required

Depending on your pace, you should plan between 4 to 6 hours hiking time. We left too late and I took my time taking photographs. We left Arch Rock about one hour to sunset and despite our grueling pace (we made it back in 90 minutes), we had to find our way back in the dark. Bring a flashlight, even if you think you have enough time.

Equipment

• Flashlight (I got stuck in the dark)
• GPS and extra batteries (stuck in the dark and no batteries)
• Water
• Dress in layers (sweater + wind jacket)
• Zoom Lens
• CP filter

Fees

No fee is required for Point Reyes.

Close Locations

• Pt. Reyes Lighthouse and Chimney Rock
• Tule Elk Reserve and Pierce Point Ranch
• Inverness and Earthquake Trail
• Fort Ross
• Bodega Bay and Bodega Head
• Bodega Dunes
• Bodega Cliffs
• Mt Tamalpais
• Muir Woods
• Point Bonita Lighthouse
• Secret Views of Marin Headlands
• Marin Headlands Bay Views

Useful Resources

• Point Reyes National Seashore Website

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