
The owner of California’s richest Gold Mine and water trader William Bowers built a lavish estate south of San Francisco, naming it Filoli. It is one of the few remaining estates of that period and the only one open to the public in the San Francisco Bay Area. Even Hollywood recognized the potential of this location. They famously featured the mansion in the 1980ies hit TV show “Dynasty” and several feature films, making it one of the best-known secrets in the Bay Area.
The National Trust for Historic Preservation manages the estate with an iron fist. Volunteer enforcers stand by with a head full of facts and policies. They enjoy surrendering countless details and chastising you for accidentally stepping on the lawn or for other small offenses. Manage to avoid the drill sergeants and a Georgian mansion set in a huge 16-acre garden on a 654-acre property is all yours to explore. At least the parts you can see from the official walkways.
The official parts afford you a spectacular insight into the estate of Bowers who lived in a style incomprehensible to most of us. Along the way, you have the opportunity to photograph the mansion and the gardens from the composition restricting confines of well-established paths.
How to get there
Take the Edgewood Road exit from Highway 280, south of the Highway 92 intersection. Turn west until Edgewood Road ends in a T-intersection on Canada Road after about 0.5 miles. Turn right on Canada Road. The entrance to the Mansion is about 1.3 miles north of the intersection on your left.
GPS position
How to photograph Filoli
The House

Kitchen pots
As you cannot bring a tripod into the house, I recommend not bringing a tripod at all, especially since you cannot visit during the magic hour anyways. One exception would be for macro photography in the garden.
Inside the mansion, this means you will need to work with poor lighting conditions. I prefer to use a wide-angle lens and an image stabilized zoom lens. Like the electronic stability system of your car, the image stabilizer will extend the stable range, but you need to be aware of the limits. Image stabilizers significantly extend the useful exposure time, but you should practice and become familiar with your lens and the exposure times and focal lengths.
Since camera shake is the result of random movements, you should take multiple photographs of each scene. With this trick, you will often find some pictures that turn out well, even when you expose longer than you normally should without a tripod. Whenever I get into a situation where I do not want to push the ISO range or cannot push it any more, I use this as a last resort. In the Filoli mansion, this worked well.

Reception Room
Dynamic range is another concern in the mansion. Light shining through the open windows, illuminating a subject, like the face of the statue above, the windows themselves, and lamps all pose challenges in the surrounding dark rooms. You could expose several different shots and use software to align the handheld images in order to create high dynamic range photographs. However, many indoor compositions with close subjects, like the picture above, would suffer from parallax errors.
Simply expose on the most important elements of your image and learn how much you can push your camera. Taking RAW images, I know that I can overexpose about one stop and still recover highlights. I spot metered on the face, read the settings, and increased my exposure by one more stop to improve the shadow detail.
Boost your ISO sensitivity just enough to be able to shoot handheld, but no more. This will allow you to recover as much shadow detail as possible without creating excessive noise.

Library
Photographing indoors requires more practice. The lighting conditions change quickly and are often poor. You need to change your metering settings, take care of the dynamic range, and pay attention to your depth and your composition. A wide-angle lens makes many of these tasks easier.
Sometimes compositions require patience, especially the ballroom and the long floors. It may take a lot of time to catch a small opening between the crowds, but the resulting pictures are worth the wait. Set up your image, pre-focus, and take a couple of test pictures with people in them. This will eliminate any setup time and increase your chances of success when a small opening occurs.
A few unexpected treats, like the small hidden rooms adjacent to the library, spice up the mansion tour and keep you entertained.
The Gardens

Garden Gate
If you ran out of patience in the house, you will have a hard time in the Gardens. I waited a long time for the photograph above, as one after another walked past me and along the path into the distance. Eventually, I was able to get my photograph, but it nearly cost me my sanity to do so.
There are four good ways around this problem though.
1. Use a wide-angle lens
Wide-angle lenses emphasize foreground elements and push middle ground and background elements into infinity. People thus will be far less dominant in your frame to the point where they become invisible. You need a strong foreground, like a dense flower field, to make this work though. Depending on the season and the actual amount of people, this may not always be an option.

Tree
2. Macro Photography
Rare flowers and a countless variety of species make this garden an exceptional place for you if your heart is set on macro photography. In this case, I would even suggest bringing a tripod and skipping the mansion altogether. You will be happy in this garden and you can easily keep people out of your photographs.
3. Isolate Subjects
Use a longer focal length and isolate an interesting subject. The small round tree, illuminated in direct sunlight and set against a dark hedge, is a good example of this technique. Using a long focal length, I eliminated everything else from this picture, focusing only on shapes and light. A brighter subject in front of a darker subject works better than the opposite, since bright subjects naturally stand out and attract attention.
4. Integrate People
Integrating people into your photos is the most difficult technique due to their erratic behavior. Combined with the isolating technique, this can result in some of the most powerful compositions. Imagine a child touching the funny tree above or a parent and a child looking at a flower together.
Best Time of the Day and Best Season
The Gardens are best during the spring when countless tulips, daffodils, and roses burst into life and paint the gardens in vibrant colors.
The Mansion is open between 10am and 3:30pm Tuesday to Saturday and from 11am to 3:30pm on Sundays. It closes during Federal holidays.
Time required
The Trust, who has little heart for unique compositions, also does not care about good lighting conditions, restricting the opening hours severely. I recommend you arrive shortly after 10am, since you have a lot of ground to cover. Plan at least three hours to see the mansion and the Gardens.
Equipment
- Small Camera Bag or Slingshot Bag
- Wide-angle lens
- Macro lens
- Zoom Lens
Fees
The entrance fee is $15. Seniors receive a $3 discount and students and young children pay $5. You can also choose to become a member, pay a hefty yearly fee, and enjoy free visits whenever you like.
Close Locations
- Devils Slide
- Skyline Blvd
- Stanford
- Half Moon Bay
- Pacifica
- Ano Nuevo
- Pigeon Point Lighthouse
- Roaring Camp
- Big Basin Redwoods State Park
- Capitola
- Santa Cruz Natural Bridges State Beach
- Santa Cruz Pier and Boardwalk
- Mission San Jose
- All San Francisco Locations
Useful Resources
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7 Comments
Those indoor shots are great. I’m pretty sure I wouldn’t have the patience. The garden gate photo is lovely; glad you retained your sanity.
For only $60 a year you can go there as many times as you want. A great time is early morning especially in winter and early fall when fewer people are there. True it is busy on weekends and mid-day but get there during the week by 9:45, ready to go and you won’t encounter many people for a good hour. It slows down this time of year and it is also slow when it reopens in Feb. Pay attention to the Camperdown Elms by the pool. They are magnificent to photograph 4 times a year. Gnarly and moss laden subjects in winter, interesting blooms of pale green in Spring. Then a wonderful canopy of dark green leaves touches the ground until fall when it turns a gorgeous yellow. I would love to have four photos of that tree in a frame all taken from the same spot at those different tlimes of the year. I’m just a point and shoot fan of Filoli but one of these days I’m going to learn how to take a great photo just so I can get those photos of that tree. It’s stunning – my fave on the property. If there is a particular photo you want to take you can ask the docent if it would be ok to step into an area and they will usually let you if there aren’t lots of people around. Trouble is if they allow everyone all the time, it would be very hard on the property. Your photo of the garden gate looking between the yews to the High place is beautiful. It is a whole different look now that the yews have been drastically cut back. It will be many years before anyone will get a photo like that again. Filoli is a fabulous place that many people have not discovered. A membership with all the additional benefits is well worth the money! The more you go there, the more you appreciate it. Thanks for sharing your photos and advice.
Thanks for your insight Lainey. I appreciate your comments and so will most of the readers.
I understand their rules, but I also love to poke fun at overly stiff people. This is part of my creative freedom and I appreciate that you don’t take offense in it.
Glad you liked my shots. I will certainly come back again, but I won’t sign up for membership just yet
I’ve thought about visiting, but was afraid of having to deal with overzealous security. Looks like I made the right decision to avoid this place. Thanks for the article.
Thank you for visiting and posting guidance for photographing at Filoli’s House and Garden. You were able to capture several remarkable images, clearly showing your level of expertise. As noted, the weekends and mid-day are busy times with many people enjoying the historic property. The early morning, when Filoli first opens Tuesday through Sunday at 10am, and beginning of the year (the estate reopens in February) afford a quieter time and possibly more occasion for completing shots with minimum obstruction.
Filoli also extends the opportunity for artists and photographers to have access to the gardens after hours, from 3:30pm – 6:30pm, on a select day each month. Space is limited to 30 artists and photographers offering the chance for intricate work. Photographers may use tripods; other artists may use easels and work in the medium of their choice. Artists provide all their own materials and storage containers for the removal of all used water and non-toxic cleaning fluids. No fluids of any type are to be disposed of at Filoli. Fee: per day: $25 for members; $30 for non-members. Pre-registration is highly recommended, visit the website (www.filoli.org/special-events-and-exhibits Artist Access). (Membership fees are $60.00 for individuals and a senior rate (65 and older) of only $45.00.)
Non-members: The Artist Access Fee includes same day admission to Filoli. You are welcome to arrive anytime between 10:00 am – 2:30 pm, visit the historic House and Garden and scout locations for your next masterpiece.
I just wanted to make one correction regarding C. Abbott’s information about Filoli. On Sundays Filoli opens at 11:00 a.m., not 10:00 a.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays, Filoli opens at 10:00 a.m. Closed on Mondays. On Tuesday through Sunday, Filoli’s House and Garden close at 3:30 p.m. but last admission to the property is at 2:30 p.m.
Filoli is closed now until Feb. 7 when it opens again to the public for the 2012 Visitors’ Season. As C. Abbott states, Artist Access days at Filoli are a great way for photographers and artists to have access to the 16-acre Garden after hours. Pre-registration for Artist Access days is required. There is lots more information at http://www.filoli.org.
Thank you.
Thanks C. Abbott and C. Syrett. Good to know all the options
I am certain that my readers appreciate the information.