Car Monster

When you drive on CA-190 toward Death Valley, you will see a road sign to Darwin. Paying no attention, nearly everyone flies by. Nobody seems to care about this lonely small town decaying in the hot summer sun of the Inyo Mountains.

Darwin is a desolate place, a sorry excuse for a city whose best days are over 100 years away. A few individuals still cling on to life in this peculiar and eerie town at the edge of Death Valley. Of the “50 or so” inhabitants that the city limits sign announces, you will see mostly distrusting eyes lurking behind closed windows. Who can blame them? What cruel deity has banned them to this pitiful stretch of America? A few people actually drive around in cars whose value doubles each they fill it up.

Darwin is an interesting place for photography. It is worth the quick detour for the bizarre, twisted pictures you can take here. You cannot help feeling funny when you arrive and feeling better when you leave.

How to get there

The turnoff to Darwin Road from CA-190 is 12.8 miles from the CA-190 and CA-136 intersection. Coming from the south, you will take CA-190 to Death Valley, near Olancha. From the north, take CA-136 near Lone Pine.

Darwin road leads right into town. Drive 5.5 miles to the town center.

Tip: The gas station just south of CA-190 and CA-395 intersection always had the better prices on all my visits to this area.

GPS position

• 36°16’5.19″N 117°35’31.03″W

How to photograph Darwin

Darwin Post Office and Gas Station

Probably the most interesting large subjects are the large yellow water truck (first image of the article) and the gas station / post office.

I used a wide-angle lens and stepped very close to the water truck. The distortion adds character to the truck that almost appears like a yellow monster with its mouth gaping open, as if it wants to swallow you. The yellow color and blue sky complement each other wonderfully. Shooting through the passenger window, framing the city through the driver’s eyes, also creates very appealing compositions.

The gas station is yet another forgotten jewel. The old gas pumps are relics that should be placed under protection. Thankfully, the dry air helps to preserve these spectacular antiques. I used them to frame the post office, but they also make superb subjects by themselves against the dark blue sky.

Lizard in Darwin

At first glance, there does not seem to be much else here, but look closer before you leave disappointed. The thing that really stands out at this location is the amount of interesting details you can find everywhere. A plaster samurai peaking through the windows of an old barn, a strung up lizard the size of a small croc, rusting equipment, or a cattle skull above a door – this city has an amazing wealth of detail shots waiting for an eager photographer.

Darwin Mine

The old mine is on private property and the owners make it abundantly clear that your presence on the property is not wanted. However, you can take a few photographs from the road when you leave this town behind you, most likely never to return again.

Best Time of the Day and Best Season

Darwin is not the place to save for your sunset shots, but it makes for a good filler between locations. Avoid hot summer days.

Time required

You will find it difficult to spend more than 30-45 minutes photographing here.

Equipment

• Zoom Lens
• CP filter

Fees

No fee to see this place!

Close Locations

• Darwin Falls
• Aguereberry Point
• Father Crowley Viewpoint
• Saline Valley
• Harrisburg Ghost Town
• Skidoo Ghost Town
• Ballarat Ghost Town
• Cerro Gordo Ghost Town
• Randsburg Ghost Town
• Silver City Ghost Town
• Trona Pinnacles
• Alabama Hills
• Red Rock Canyon State Park

Useful Resources

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Thieves will be prosecuted: Lost Burro Mine

Lost Burro Gold Mine is a remote mining camp in Death Valley’s backcountry. Extremely well preserved due to the dry winds and a curse that keeps people from stealing items, the mine is an exceptional destination for photographers. The mining camp is located in a narrow side canyon that provides good shooting opportunities.

The roughnecks who braved the hard conditions of Death Valley didn’t get rich, but left an account of their lives behind that still fascinates visitors 100 years later.

Due to the remote location, you will most likely have the mine to yourself. Nobody will get in your way but nobody will help you if you get into trouble either. Take your time and discover the fascination of the old mining camps spread throughout the mountains of Death Valley.

How to get there

Get gas at Stovepipe Wells before heading out into the wilderness. Even if you have sufficient gasoline, it is a good idea to start these trails with a full tank. The gasoline at Furnace Creek is more expensive, but they have three grades, diesel and propane while Stovepipe Wells only has regular unleaded gas. Olancha, located outside Death Valley on CA-190 has the last cheap gas before heading into Death Valley NP. Drivers sometimes underestimate the vast distances in Death Valley and end up stranded.

Map of Lost Burro Mine

From Stovepipe Wells, take CA-190 east and take Scotty’s Castle road north at the next intersection. After 33 miles you will get to a ranger station. Shortly after the ranger station, turn left onto Ubehebe Crater Road. Follow this road for 5 miles and then take the Racetrack Valley Dirt road. After 20 miles you will arrive at Teakettle Junction, a famous destination by itself. People hang their teakettle with a personal inscription and a memento inside.

At Teakettle Junction, turn left towards Hunter Mountain onto Hidden Valley Road. The side trail that leads to Lost Burro Mine is 3.2 miles from this point. First, you will drive through Lost Burro Gap, a narrow canyon, before entering Hidden Valley.

From the dirt trail intersection, the spur to your right leads to Lost Burro Mine. This trail gets very rugged after a while. Since the mine is only a little over one mile up this road, I recommend parking at the intersection or at the side of the road a few hundred meters uphill. I left my car at N36 43.638 W117 30.671 and walked the last bit.

Teakettle Junction with Hidden Valley Road

GPS position

• N36 43.422 W117 31.314

How to photograph the Lost Burro Mine in Death Valley

Lost Burro Mine Cabin

As always, only take photographs and leave everything else undisturbed for others to discover again. The cabin is still in use today as a shelter. You can step inside to take photographs of the cabin and of the items the prospectors left behind. Just remember to close the door behind you when you leave, to keep the coyotes out.

Avoid using flash when shooting inside to preserve the colors and texture of your subjects. Turn up ISO levels to suit your needs or use a tripod if you have to. Certainly, a matter of taste, I find that digital noise goes well with these old, dusty subjects. If you cannot resist the lure of your tripod, consider bracketing your exposure and underexposing, to recover the highlights of the outside. Later you can stack your images to create an HDR photo.

Close to the cabin, you will find the outhouse. Incorporating the surrounding yucca trees, you can create surreal landscape photos featuring the outhouse. Use your camera handheld and change your position and focal length while examining the composition. Keep in mind to look where you step to avoid making close contact with a rattlesnake.

Mill: Lost Burro Mine

Another main attraction is the stamp mill. From the hill, you have exceptional views of the camp below. Using a medium telephoto lens, you can isolate the cabin from the camp. Hidden valley, which stretches in the distance behind the cabin, makes an excellent backdrop.

The mill itself still has some heavy machinery dangling from a decaying support structure. The old cast iron wheels are not very interesting. You can get the best shots with the valley as the backdrop and the mill in the foreground. Incorporating some of the foreground debris in your picture can dramatically improve the results.

The mining shaft, old wheelbarrows, stoves, signs and bullet-ridden barrels are just some of the subjects you can find at this mine.

Keep in mind to stay safe and tread lightly!

Best Time of the Day and Best Season

The light can be good throughout the day. Come during the cooler season to avoid the immense heat of Death Valley.

Time required

You need about two hours to explore the mine. Getting there and back however is a major undertaking and takes the better part of the day. Think about combining the trip with a visit to the famous Racetrack Valley.

Equipment

• Wide-Angle Lens
• Normal Lens
• CP Filter
• Lens Hood
• Tripod
• Spare batteries or power inverter and charger for your car
• Storage (memory cards, netbook/laptop, image tank)
• Water for two days
• Food and snacks
• Tire repair kit, tire sealant, spare tire, jack
• GPS device / maps
• Flashlight
• First Aid kit

Fees

The entrance fee to Death Valley is $20. You can pay at Stovepipe Wells or the Furnace Creek visitor center. Stovepipe Wells has only a ticket vending machine.

Difficulty Getting There

You should not attempt the drive in a sedan. A Subaru Outback and any stock SUV can make the drive. Park rangers usually advise you against driving this road, no matter what car you drive.

Carefully study the wording on your rental car contract. Most contracts forbid off-pavement driving, while some contracts forbid driving on un-maintained roads. Technically the park service maintains this road, since they grade it occasionally. If you become stuck, it may be impossible to get a commercial towing service out here. You will have to rely on the kindness of strangers.

Fortunately, this route is popular. I have met several other cars out here.

Difficulty Photographing

The countless items provide ample space for snakes and scorpions to hide and for you to cut yourself. Remember that you are far away from help and therefore need to pay even more attention than usual to prevent accidents. Look where you step and make some noise.

California is seismically active. There is not much to see inside the mineshaft and since you never know how the rocks have shifted in the past 100 years, I recommend not entering the shaft.

Close Locations

• Death Valley Racetrack
• Ubehebe Crater
• Scotty’s Castle
• Titus Canyon and Leadfield Ghost Town
• Wildflowers in Death Valley
• Mesquite Flat Dunes (near Stovepipe Wells)
• Badwater
• Salt Pan Polygons
• Zabriskie Point
• Saline Valley
• Saline Valley Dunes
• Father Crowley Point
• Darwin Falls
• Cerro Gordo

Useful Resources

• Death Valley Backcountry Roads and Useful Camping Information
• Death Valley Photos
• Death Valley National Park Site
• A Video mostly about the Drive

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Death Valley Racetrack

The Racetrack Playa is a uniquely fascinating feature of Death Valley. A mysterious force moves the rocks across the lakebed, leaving intriguing tracks in the dry lakebed. Nobody can back up any theory with conclusive evidence, since no one has been able to observe the rocks actually moving, yet.

The tracks are a favorite subject for photographers and for visitors who muse over the mystery. Those who take the long and harsh drive to this remote valley reap plentiful rewards. No picture can prepare you for the fascination that will grip you once you walk on the playa and see the tracks. No other photo subject is like this.

The Racetrack is also one of the best places in California for celestial photography. Mountains surround the Racetrack Playa on all sides, eliminating light pollution. I witnessed the clearest night of my life, with the stars appearing closer than ever before.

Visit the Racetrack for a once in a lifetime experience!

How to get there

Death Valley Racetrack Map (click to enlarge)

From the CA-190 junction, take Scotty’s Castle road north. A little over 33 miles and shortly after the ranger station, turn left onto Ubehebe Crater Road. Take the Racetrack Valley Dirt road after about 5 miles and continue on this road for about 20 miles to Teakettle Junction (picture below).

Keep going straight at Teakettle Junction, after you satisfied your picture taking needs at this place. You will reach the Racetrack Valley after six more miles.

Teakettle Junction with Hidden Valley Road

Consider an overnight stay at the primitive campsite about two miles south of the Racetrack. The sites are hard to identify, consisting mostly of a fire pit and a spot for your tent.

Fill up at the Stovepipe Wells gas station. Gasoline is cheaper here than at Furnace Creek, but only regular gas is available while Furnace Creek has all grades, diesel and propane. I usually get gas in Olancha on CA-190 just outside Death Valley. The station at the CA-395 / CA-190 intersection is the last cheap gas before Death Valley. I then top off in Stovepipe Wells before going on a long dirt road drive. You easily underestimate the distances in Death Valley. There is no other gas station north of Stovepipe Wells.

GPS position

• N36 39.935 W117 33.791

How to photograph the Death Valley Racetrack

The best area to photograph the sliding rocks is from the southern end of the dry lakebed, near the GPS marker of the previous section. Here are the most rocks with the deepest impressions. The area north, near the Grandstand, barely has any rocks and those that I found had no visible tracks.

The rocks appear to break off the mountains to the east of the valley, with the largest concentration in the southeast.

You will find even more stones further east from the GPS marker, but the stone density distracts rather than enhances your pictures.

Death Valley Racetrack Black and White

Find a stone that looks interesting, preferably with its track leading towards an interesting background feature (see image at the beginning of this article). Curved tracks add a dynamic feeling that improves the image even more. Amazingly, you will find stones with tracks in all directions. This makes it hard to imagine how the winds alone could have this strange effect. Use this to your advantage and find a track that is lit the way you want and points to an area of the background you like. Scout the area to find your stone.

Once you find your stone, consider where you want to place it in your picture. A very good choice is the bottom right of your image. According to the Golden Rule of Photography, this is the most interesting part of your image. Viewers often “read” images like they read a book, ending in that corner. The stone will keep the viewers concentrated while the track will lead them back into the image.

In the first image, I simply placed the stone left, because I liked the background to the right of the track better and wanted to include more of this area. The resulting split between sky and earth at around the top third of the image is more pleasing and the blue sky nicely balances the yellow/reddish hues of the lakebed.

I used a wide-angle lens in my images to emphasize the foreground, including the pattern on the dry lakebed. The wide-angle lens also helps me to achieve a very large depth of field and to stretch the distance between foreground and background, making the track appear even longer. This also helped me to isolate the stones from their nearest neighbors, reducing background distractions.

Vary your angle between the pictures, stand up, crouch down and lay down. Put the horizon high or low in your picture. Shoot vertical and horizontal images. The stone and track subject can get boring after a while, but the more you try, the more you will learn and come up with better compositions. Shooting standing up from eye level is not always the best option.

You can combine multiple exposures to increase the Depth of Field of your images. Mount the camera on a tripod and photograph the same composition several times, varying the focal distance from near to far. Use software like Combine ZM or Photo Acute Studio to stack the single frames and create a single picture with unlimited Depth of Field.

I took the images on this page without tripod, since I prefer the free movement of hand-held shooting whenever the light allows.

Best Time of the Day and Best Season

Avoid this area during the warm season, especially if you plan to venture beyond the racetrack.

Spring offers the best choice for photography. Winter rains soak the dry lakebed, making access difficult and leading to foot tracks all over the lake. Irresponsible visitors move stones around and trample the area around each stone, making fall photography less desirable.

Time required

You will spend most of the time getting here and back again. Depending on your driving style, the dirt road from Ubehebe Crater will take between 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hours one way. Add one more hour each way to the CA-190 intersection east of Stovepipe Wells.

Considering at least two hours for photography at the Racetrack Playa, you are easily looking at a full day adventure. I recommend to stay overnight at the primitive campsite south of the Racetrack to take advantage of the late and early sun. My article “Hybrid Off-Road Adventure” details the trip and overnight stay.

Equipment

• Wide-Angle Lens
• Normal Lens
• CP Filter
• Lens Hood
• Tripod
• Spare batteries or power inverter and charger for your car
• Storage (memory cards, netbook/laptop, image tank)
• Water for two days
• Tire repair kit, tire sealant, spare tire, jack
• GPS device / maps
• Food for the expected length of your trip
• Flashlight

Fees

Death Valley NP charges a $20 entrance fee that you can pay at the machine in Stovepipe Wells or at the Furnace Creek Visitor Center. If you have a National Park Pass, show it at the visitor center to get your window sticker.

Difficulty Getting There

You need a high clearance vehicle with good tires. The park rangers do a good job at turning people away, which is understandable considering the distances they need to drive to assist stranded motorists. However, I believe there is no reason to fear the road. I spotted several sharp rocks, but I was able to steer around them easily. I even saw a family sedan on its way back. I believe that it is foolish to drive here in a normal car. Rental car companies use low-jack devices and may punish you for taking the drive.

Any stock car with higher clearance like a Subaru Outback can master this road. Bring tire sealant, a small compressor, a spare tire and sufficient water supplies to last you a couple of days. During my visit, I was never alone on the road for more than 30 minutes.

Close Locations

• Lost Burro Mine
• Ubehebe Crater
• Scotty’s Castle
• Titus Canyon and Leadfield Ghost Town
• Wildflowers in Death Valley
• Mesquite Flat Dunes (near Stovepipe Wells)
• Badwater
• Salt Pan Polygons
• Zabriskie Point
• Saline Valley
• Saline Valley Dunes
• Father Crowley Point
• Darwin Falls
• Cerro Gordo

Useful Resources

• Death Valley Backcountry Roads and Useful Camping Information
• Death Valley Photos
• Death Valley National Park Site

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View from Aguereberry Point

Aguereberry Point is located high above Death Valley in the Panamint Mountains. It is the western cousin of Dante’s view, which is located in the Black Mountains on the opposite side of Death Valley. Agueberry Point thus is the best place to photograph the valley in the late afternoon with the sun in your back. Despite its unrivaled views of Death Valley to the east, Aguereberry Point does not see much tourist traffic.

On a visit in early January 2010, we were completely alone and could enjoy the peacefulness this remote location offers. The only sound came from my camera shutter, as I captured the fleeting light.

Your mind takes a while to grasp the vastness of this place and the distance you can see. The spectacular scenery of Aguereberry Point should put this location on your short list of places to see in Death Valley.

How to get there

A sign clearly marks the turnoff from Highway 178 (Emigrant Canyon Road), one of the roads leading into Death Valley. The dirt road leading to Aguereberry Point from here is 6 miles long. You will find the Eureka Mine turnoff after about 2 miles. Keep to the left and follow the road all the way to Aguereberry Point.

The road is passable with a 2WD passenger car. The first half to one mile has nasty washboarding that will rattle your car. I found that it is much easier on you and your car if you keep the speed above 35 mph. If you are bold enough to push your car faster, the ride will actually become smoother.

Further down the canyon, this is more difficult, since you cannot see around the curves and have to expect oncoming traffic. Slow down towards the end of the road, after about 5.5 miles, at N36° 21.238’’ W117° 02.890’. As you climb the hill, you will drive straight towards a cliff. At the top of the hill, the road turns sharply to the left to climb the final 0.3 miles to Aguereberry Point.

Get out of your car and walk around the cliff to the northeast for another 600 feet to get a good view toward Stovepipe Wells, Zabriskie Point and Furnace Creek.

GPS position

Aguereberry Point:

• 36°21’31.02″N 117° 2’49.96″W

Highway 178 turnoff:

• 36°21’18.59″N 117° 8’3.43″W

How to photograph from Aguereberry Point

Two things really work well at Aguereberry Point, telephoto compositions and grand scenic landscapes with foreground elements. When you arrive 90 minutes to 60 minutes before sunset, some of the brush in the foreground will still be sunlit. This is a good time to set up a couple of near-far compositions.

The picture at the top of the article is an example. The shadow at the bottom is not my oversized head, but the shadow of the ridge behind me, in this case unavoidable. Indeed, I had to reposition myself a few times to find pleasing compositions that kept my shadow out. Smart people will use Photoshop to remove their shadows and even smarter people save themselves a lot of time by taking a few seconds in the field to reposition properly.

Death Valley Wavy Hill

Obviously, the second best thing to do is hunting for telephoto landscape shots. I was able to obtain a few very good photographs this way. The landscape is in a state of flux, as the shadow of the Panamint Range slowly creeps over the valley floor. The lighting conditions on the dunes and the surrounding mountains change within minutes.

I simply took a telephoto lens and framed the interplay of light and shadow. The wavy hill picture above is an example of this. The picture captivates with its simplicity and elegance.

The sun will light up the rock spire to your right until it finally becomes just a glowing top on the ridge and the dunes at the valley floor will cast fantastic shadows. You need to use a tripod, yet stay flexible and look all around, including behind you, to hunt for light.

Zabriskie Point seen from Aguereberry Point

Use a telephoto lens and isolate some of the most prominent features. In the picture above you can see Zabriskie Point at the far right corner of the picture, just below the darker brown streak.

Aguereberry point offers more choices than Dantes View for captivating overviews of Death Valley and better light for sunset photography.

Best Time of the Day and Best Season

You should arrive 90 minutes prior to sunset, when the sun can still reach the valley and bathe it in warm light. All seasons are good, but I prefer winter and spring. The unpaved road may become impassable for 2WD cars after a hard rain.

Time required

You can find the best light at Aguereberry Point from 90 minutes prior to sunset to 30 minutes after sunset. Add to that the driving time (15 minutes each way on the dirt road and an appropriate time to get to the turnoff). In Death Valley I consistently underestimate the driving times. It is huge. The driving time from Furnace Creek to the turnoff is about 80 minutes!

Equipment

• Telephoto lens
• normal lens
• circular polarizing filter
• tripod for sunset shots
• water
• sun cream

Fees

The entrance fee to Death Valley is $20 per passenger vehicle. You can find the nearest pay station at Stovepipe Wells. You can show your national parks pass at the visitor center. Place it visibly on your dashboard when you go hiking and haven’t had time to go to the visitor center yet. Unlike most other national parks, there are no entrance booths.

Close Locations in Death Valley

• Harrisburg (Aguereberry Camp) Ghost Town
• Skidoo
• Charcoal Kilns
• Darwin Falls
• Father Crowley Viewpoint
• Mosaic Canyon
• Mesquite Flat Dunes (near Stovepipe Wells)

Close Locations outside Death Valley

• Darwin
• Trona Pinnacles
• Ballarat Ghost Town
• Randsburgh Ghost Town
• Red Rock Canyon State Recreation Area
• Alabama Hills

Useful Resources

• Pete Aguereberry Information
• Death Valley National Park Official Website
• My Death Valley Photographs

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Ballarat through the window of Charles Manson's family car

Located at the foot of the beautiful Panamint Mountains, Ballarat Ghost Town consists of the remains of a former supply station for the nearby mines. As the gold rush ended, Ballarat quickly declined. Residents left everything behind in pursuit of new dreams. The old fossils in the wonderful setting of Panamint Valley create uniquely photogenic ruins that many people miss in their rush from or to Death Valley National Park.

Ballarat is a small gem that nicely completes a portfolio of Death Valley, don’t miss it!

How to get there

At N36° 02.020’ W117° 16.897’ you will see a pullout with a large stone marker with some background information regarding Ballarat. A dirt road leads east towards the Panamint Mountains. A radar station is located close to Highway 178 on the dirt road. Follow this dirt road for about 3.5 miles into town.

Here is a glimpse of Google Street View of the pullout.

GPS position

• N36° 02.855’ W117° 13.453’

How to photograph Ballarat Ghost Town

Ballarat Jail and Morgue

Take your time to walk around town and explore the setting, compositions and light. Most visitors rush through the city, barely getting out of their cars. Been there, seen that, is the motto of the binge travel crowd, an unfortunate side effect of our overworked and overstressed society.

Take your time to explore Ballarat at your leisure and you will discover the creepy charm of this city. Charles Manson’s family truck (picture at the top of the article) is a sinister reminder of his nearby hideout, but also makes a superb foreground for pictures.

The two residents and two temporary residents don’t take the ghost town status too seriously. Ballarat features an RV campground and many newly discarded items. The morgue/jail building (photo above) doubled as a storage room for bikes during my visit and according to Wikipedia is inhabited during the summer.

To preserve the ghost town feel of your pictures, you don’t want any modern items showing up in your photographs. Sometimes you have to assume a slightly less compelling composition to keep an RV in the background from ruining a photograph.

Old cars in Ballarat

Despite the earliest remnants of exploration and prospecting, you will also find a heap of trash of somewhat old stuff here that can lead to interesting pictures like these three old trucks.

Ballarat is an amazing find, if you love to photograph details, textures and abstract forms but even for scenic landscape artists it offers valuable shooting opportunities.

Best Time of the Day and Best Season

I usually avoid the entire area during the hot summer months when it is painful just getting out of the car.

Time required

A 5 minute detour from Highway 178 and less than one hour for photographs is all you need.

Equipment

• wide-angle lens
• normal lens
• circular polarizing filter
• water
• sun cream

Fees

You can see Ballarat free of charge.

Close Locations outside Death Valley

• Trona Pinnacles
• Randsburgh Ghost Town
• Darwin
• Red Rock Canyon State Recreation Area
• Cerro Gordo Ghost Town
• Alabama Hills
• Calico Ghost Town
• Saline Valley Desert
• Bristlecone Pine Forest
• Silver City Ghost Town
• Barker Ranch (Charles Manson hideout)

Close Locations in Death Valley

• Harrisburg (Aguereberry Camp) Ghost Town
• Aguereberry Point
• Skidoo
• Charcoal Kilns
• Darwin Falls

Useful Resources

• Historic Information on Desert USA (with video)
• Ghost Town Photos

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