Point Reyes Lighthouse is perched on a steep cliff in the windiest place on the Pacific Coast and the foggiest place in California. Despite the unusual weather, the lighthouse is a favorite destination for visitors. Located on the westernmost outcrop of Point Reyes National Seashore, the lighthouse is also the best location for whale watching from land.

Chimney Rock is a similar outcrop, on the opposite side of the tip of Point Reyes’ peninsula, at Drakes Bay. It is a narrow stretch of land of unbelievable beauty. Surrounded by deep blue and turquoise sea, this small peninsula is vividly colorful during spring, when carpets of wildflowers cover portions of the lush green pastures.

It is not a secret how picturesque this portion of Point Reyes is. Consequently, you will have a lot of competition for your photographs. Despite the large number of visitors, both locations still are exceptional photographic treasures that you shouldn’t miss.

How to get there

California Highway 1 leads through Point Reyes Station, north of San Francisco. In Point Reyes Station, you will see a sign to Point Reyes National Seashore and Inverness. Signs are posted in the northbound and southbound direction. Following the signs will lead you to Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Follow this road through Inverness, all the way to the lighthouse parking lot.

To get to Chimney Rock, follow Pierce Point Road, which branches off to the right shortly after Inverness. Stay left on Sir Francis Drake Boulevard.

GPS position

Lighthouse

• 37°59’44.86″N 123° 1’22.77″W

Chimney Rock

• 37°59’24.65″N 122°57’55.71″W

How to photograph Point Reyes Lighthouse and Chimney Rock

Point Reyes Lighthouse

Lighthouse Stairs

Using the long flight of stairs, which lead to the lighthouse in a graceful curve, results in an esthetically pleasing composition. No wonder most photographers end up with an image just like this in their portfolio. The proportions and the flow are perfect. The viewer follows the stairs to the reward, the main subject, at the end. It puts the lighthouse in perspective. The fog helps to emphasize the distance and the length of the stairs. It also adds tension, since the lighthouse seems to stand at the edge of a deep abyss. The image gives no clue of what lies beyond, but somehow it seems as if we are meant to walk down the stairs to find out.

There is no bad weather for photography. Especially fog can greatly enhance the mood of any picture. Avoid including too much sky in your pictures and use your exposure correction, since cameras tend to underexpose in these conditions.

Lighthouse

It is no secret that the spectacular location makes the lighthouse so popular. You can find many interesting details and even some unique views down here, but the views from the stairs are simply the best. Unfortunately, those are also the most photographed, so don’t expect to come up with something entirely new. The picture in the introduction shows a different and much less photographed view of the stairs, facing in the opposite direction.

The exhibition inside the lighthouse provides a plethora of detail shots waiting for your camera and the perimeter has good views of the original lighthouse, standing on the ledge that workers blasted into the granite rock face over 100 years ago.

Danger! Charge!

After you say goodbye to the lighthouse, you still face the arduous task of climbing the stairs back up. Take an occasional breather and turn back for another view. Sometimes the weather changes quickly and the lighthouse may look better on your way up than it did on the way down.

Chimney Rock

Chimney Rock

Chimney Rock is the most spectacular hike in Point Reyes. The Pacific Ocean foams on one side and Drakes Bay lies on the other side of the narrow land bridge leading out to Chimney Rock. The beach beneath is a popular hangout for cool seals and the meadows above are dotted with wildflowers. Just like the lighthouse, this hike is often very windy.

Fish Docks

Do not let the wind distract you from the extraordinary views and superb photography. Look for seals at the beaches and keep an eye open for whales blowing in the distance during spring. The most famous view is from the Headlands overlook trail (two pictures above). Chimney Rock is a small offshore rock that is not particularly photogenic. The trail makes up for it though and I recommend walking the trail to the very end, where California suddenly ends and the vast Pacific Ocean begins. This would be the perfect place to use a fisheye lens and photograph the curvature of the earth, including the Chimney Rock trail.

From here, you can also hike down to the historic lifeboat station via the Underhill Trail. Due to the heavy fog, even the lighthouse could not completely prevent shipwrecks. This station saved many lives, yet the nearby cemetery also tells the story of those that were not lucky enough to catch a ride on the boat in time.

Tanks

Keep an eye on the beaches and you may be lucky to spot seals taking a sunbath. Watch out for other subjects that can enhance your landscape photographs. Point Reyes is also home to a large population of deer, Tule Elk (not here, but further north), and mountain lions. Attach your telephoto lens during hikes and preset your camera (Exposure speed, Auto Aperture, and Auto ISO) so you are ready when you have to be.

Enjoy your trip!

Best Time of the Day and Best Season

The stairs to the lighthouse are open from 10am to 4:30pm. If wind speeds exceed 40mph, the stairs will be closed. During the whale-watching season (last week of December to mid-April) and on weekends you will have to take a shuttle bus on Sir Francis Drake Boulevard (the road leading to the lighthouse and Chimney Rock). Spring (April and May) is the best time for a visit, since you can drive here directly and you will be able to find a large number of wildflowers.

Time required

Driving out to Chimney Rock and the Lighthouse from Point Reyes Station takes about one hour. Walking down the stairs to the lighthouse and back up takes about the same time and hiking the 1.6 miles out to Chimney Rock and back will cost you at least one hour. Together that is already three hours, without taking a single photograph. Since both locations provide exceptionally good opportunities, you should plan your entire day around this visit, maybe combined with a stop in Inverness.

Equipment

• Telephoto lens (whales, deer, sea lions)
• Zoom lens
• Fisheye Lens if you have one
• Tripod
• Polarizing Filter and UV filter
• Point and Shoot Camera
• Sweater and Windbreaker
• Snacks to get you through the day

Try to keep the load light for the climb down to the lighthouse.

Fees

Although there is no entrance fee for Point Reyes National Seashore, the shuttle bus (see Best Time section) will cost $5 / person.

Difficulty Getting There

You cannot drive to the lighthouse between the last week of December and mid April. You need to take the shuttle bus and plan accordingly.

In order to get to the lighthouse, you need to climb 308 stairs down and then back up. If you are in reasonably good physical condition, this is not a major obstacle, but it takes time and costs energy.

Lastly, the parking lot is notoriously overcrowded. You may need to park further away and walk.

Close Locations

• Tomales Bay State Park
• Pt. Reyes Tule Elk Reserve
• Pt. Reyes Coastal Trail
• Inverness and Earthquake Trail
• Fort Ross
• Bodega Bay and Bodega Head
• Bodega Dunes
• Bodega Cliffs
• Mt Tamalpais
• Muir Woods
• Point Bonita Lighthouse
• Secret Views of Marin Headlands
• Marin Headlands Bay Views

Useful Resources

• Lighthouse page on nps.gov
• Lighthousefriends page
• Chimney Rock hike

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The majestic Tule Elk, a subspecies of elk native to California, living at Point Reyes now number over 400 animals, making it the largest herd in California. After becoming nearly extinct just a few decades ago, this is one of the biggest success stories of conservation.

You have a very good chance of spotting these magnificent creatures, while hiking along the windswept Tomales Point Trail, north of historic Pierce Point Ranch, a former buttery dairy. The elk are friendly and used to hikers, making them easy subjects. The Tule Elk Reserve is thus one of the best wildlife photography spots in California.

The white mossy buildings of Pierce Point Ranch serve as an interpretive site to the public and a superb subject to photographers. The depressing atmosphere of the nearly constant fog combined with the old, beaten buildings that braved the harsh winds for decades creates a superb mood, easily captured on your photographs.

In recent years, Point Reyes has become one of my favorite destinations. The hikes are spectacular and despite its close proximity to bustling San Francisco, it remains a sanctuary of calmness. It is the perfect contrast to the hectic Bay Area.

How to get there

The Tule Elk Reserve is located at the northernmost point of Point Reyes, a windswept peninsula between Tomales Bay and the Pacific Ocean.

In order to get here, take Sir Francis Drake Boulevard toward Point Reyes National Seashore. Follow the road through the small town of Inverness. Take the Pierce Point Road to the right, about two miles after the town. The Pierce Point Ranch parking lot is 9 miles away, just before the road turns left toward McClures Beach.

GPS position

• 38°11’20.57″N 122°57’14.61″W

How to photograph Tule Elk Reserve and Pierce Point Ranch

The Elk

Tule Elk: Young Bull

We started our trail without any expectations. What could be the chances to spot wild elk anyways?

We were wrong!

About 20 minutes into our hike, a large herd of elk appeared from the mist like mythical creatures. Noticing us but not minding us, the cows quietly grazed while the young bull was satisfied that we would accept his authority.

I used my telephoto lens and set my shutter and aperture manually and my ISO sensitivity to auto. This way I could control the camera shake and depth of field, while the camera would automatically adjust the sensitivity in order to compensate for the dense fog, blocking the sun. If you are not as familiar with your camera yet, I recommend to use shutter priority mode (Tv, T) instead, to control the exposure time, which is your most important variable.

Resting Elk

Make sure your main subject is in focus! You could select a single focus point and keep it on the elk or at least pay attention which focus points blink in your viewfinder.

I was elated as we finally broke away from our herd and got surprised a second time when we found yet another herd just 10 minutes away. I took the bull photograph from the intro here. It did not take long until the herd disappeared into the mist that grew denser every minute.

On our way home, we discovered a third herd grazing by the road that was not here before. The experience will stay engrained in our memories for a long time. If you get the chance, you should take this hike and see the Tule Elk of Point Reyes.

The Ranch

Pierce Point Ranch: Path and House

You will start and end your walk at the Pierce Point Ranch parking lot. Do not miss the opportunity to explore the lonely buildings. Many times, you will have the place almost to yourself, as most people bypass the ranch to start the Tomales Point Trail.

In the picture above, I used the path and the open gate to lead the viewer toward the house in the distance. The fog gives this picture a three dimensional quality and the open gate invites us to step through it and explore the ranch. Using the open barn doors to frame the buildings behind it achieves a similar effect, but without the clear direction of the footpath.

Pierce Point Ranch

I took the next picture from the Tomales Point Trail. Walking away from the ranch, and using a telephoto lens, I was able to compress the distance between the buildings. This makes the buildings appear to hunker down and cling together. The cold, slightly bluish tone of the fog further enhances the feeling of coldness.

On clear days, you could use a circular polarizing filter to enhance the contrast between the deep blue sky and the white and green buildings. Go with the weather and decide your compositions based on the light. Framing pictures through doors will be more difficult if the contrast is too great.

Best Time of the Day and Best Season

The elk rut season is between July and September. During this time, you can see bulls sparring and hear them bugling. Volunteers will wait at the trailhead with important information, helping you to make the most of your visit. You can see elk throughout the year. I took the photographs on this page during a recent visit in October.

The fog usually moves in later throughout the day, making a morning visit a good idea. I have had fog during most of my visits though.

Time required

The trail length between the trailhead and Tomales Point is about 4.7 miles or 9.4 miles round trip. Most likely, you will not have to hike the entire distance to see elk. Sometimes you can even see them along the road to Pierce Point Ranch. Unfortunately, it is impossible to predict where you will encounter the herds. It may take only one hour or several hours to see the elk.

Equipment

• Zoom Lens
• Telephoto Lens
• Circular Polarizing Filter
• Dress in layers (sweater + wind jacket)
• Snacks

Fees

No fee is required for Point Reyes.

Close Locations

• Pt. Reyes Lighthouse and Chimney Rock
• Pt. Reyes Coastal Trail
• Inverness and Earthquake Trail
• Fort Ross
• Bodega Bay and Bodega Head
• Bodega Dunes
• Bodega Cliffs
• Mt Tamalpais
• Muir Woods
• Point Bonita Lighthouse
• Secret Views of Marin Headlands
• Marin Headlands Bay Views

Useful Resources

• Point Reyes National Seashore Website

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Millers Point, Pt Reyes

The rugged, windswept peninsula of Pt. Reyes protrudes into the Pacific Ocean just north of San Francisco. The elements have shaped the unprotected cape into a delightfully beautiful landscape. Rocky and sandy beaches, grasslands and a fantastic seascape make this a favorite getaway for Bay Area residents. Most of the weekenders concentrate on the beaches close to the main parking lots. Trail traffic can be quite low, considering the amount of visitors who enjoy this wonderful place.

In this article, I will take you on a long trail along the coast of Drakes Bay, to Arch Rock, a sea arch. We will follow the longer and more scenic route as opposed to the shorter Bear Valley Trail. The journey is the real destination, as you will hike along a beach, through forests and follow the rugged steep coast.

How to get there

Olema is a small city located on Highway 1. In Olema, turn west on Bear Valley Road from Highway 1. The exit is hidden behind some brush and easy to miss, despite the road sign indicating the Point Reyes turnoff (Google Street View).

After the turnoff, drive 1.8 miles and turn left onto Limantour Spit Rd. Follow this road for 7.5 miles until the last road leading to the left. Follow this road to the end to a small parking lot. This is the starting point of our tour.

Pt Reyes Trail Map (click to enlarge)

This is a 13 miles round trip hike, but you can turn around at any time, since it is not a loop trail.

Shortly after the turnoff in Olema, you will pass the visitor center on your left. Stop for a map!

Download the gpx file to study the trail in detail.

GPS position

Parking Lot (start your trail):

• 38° 1’33.96″N 122°52’36.12″W

Miller’s Point:

• 37°59’13.08″N 122°48’47.70″W

How to photograph Pt. Reyes Coastal Trail

We left our car in good spirits, but without enough water and too late. With the sun still high in the sky, I underestimated the distance, despite sophisticated charting methods (topo map).

Drakes Bay, Pt Reyes

The coast trail starts further north-east on Limantour Spit Rd. However, driving down to the parking lot will save you some distance and also keep you from having to hike uphill on your way back.

From the parking lot, head towards the beachto get past the inland water hole. As you hike across the dunes, you can catch a glimpse of the terrain ahead. This is also a good spot to photograph the dune grass and the beach (photo above). You can greatly improve the feeling of this image if you return in time for sunset. The dune grass will have a golden hue and the cliffs will glow in the light of the fading day.

Follow the beach for about 0.4 miles and then turn left to get back on Coast Road. Follow Coast Road for another three quarters of a mile until it turns left, following a small ravine. Take the Woodward Fire Rd toward Coast Campground. The trail leads through the camp and slightly uphill, following the coastline.

Deer behind bushes

Follow the trail and in case of doubt, always pick the trail leading back to the water and along the coast. As you pass through the brush, keep an eye open for deer. The shy animals peek through the bushes.

Brush

The brown background vegetation blends with the deer and is very distracting in your images. It is very difficult to get a depth that is shallow enough to blur the background sufficiently. Some post processing may be necessary to obtain the results you like. There are also scores of little comical birds running around, but they are very hard to photograph.

I saw an egret in one of the small rivers, shortly before the wooden bridge, but the shy animal knew how to keep brush between itself and me. Maybe you have more luck than I did. I took a few photographs of the brush instead.

Follow the trail until you get to Millers Point (photograph at the top of the article). From here, you can take a short trail down to the beach to see Arch Rock, a natural stone arch in the ocean. From Millers Point, you have a superb view of Drakes bay to the north, the windswept rocks and the crashing waves. The Sea blows ice-cold winds into unprotected Millers Point, making our early October visit feel like an arctic adventure.

On our rush back home, I took a few more photographs of the warm sunlight hitting the trail at various locations.

Trail Sunset

Best Time of the Day and Best Season

Any time of the day, as long as you don’t leave too late. Late spring will have the most color.

Time required

Depending on your pace, you should plan between 4 to 6 hours hiking time. We left too late and I took my time taking photographs. We left Arch Rock about one hour to sunset and despite our grueling pace (we made it back in 90 minutes), we had to find our way back in the dark. Bring a flashlight, even if you think you have enough time.

Equipment

• Flashlight (I got stuck in the dark)
• GPS and extra batteries (stuck in the dark and no batteries)
• Water
• Dress in layers (sweater + wind jacket)
• Zoom Lens
• CP filter

Fees

No fee is required for Point Reyes.

Close Locations

• Pt. Reyes Lighthouse and Chimney Rock
• Tule Elk Reserve and Pierce Point Ranch
• Inverness and Earthquake Trail
• Fort Ross
• Bodega Bay and Bodega Head
• Bodega Dunes
• Bodega Cliffs
• Mt Tamalpais
• Muir Woods
• Point Bonita Lighthouse
• Secret Views of Marin Headlands
• Marin Headlands Bay Views

Useful Resources

• Point Reyes National Seashore Website

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